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When Lincoln—Andy’s and my cat whom we consider to be our son—fled from my arms and bolted into an unknown wooded area, we were devastated. Not only did Linc have no familiarity to the area, but we were also nearly 30 miles from home so the chance that he could gain familiarity by walking a short distance was simply not going to happen. To make our situation more troubling, both Andy and I had never lost an animal, so we were lost as well but in a different way.
The good news is we did rescue Lincoln, and we were able to get him home safe and unharmed on Day Eight. I wrote before that this situation made us keenly aware that many stories do not end like ours, but this is why we feel compelled to open up.
We shared every heartbreaking to hopeful detail of Lincoln’s escape, our efforts to find him, and his return back home, but we have more that we want to add because we know this information can help others.
Therefore, we want to outline what we learned chronologically, writing best actions to take if your cherished animal runs away, major tips to amplify your efforts, and common but severe misconceptions to know.
In the end, we hope no one has to go through this, but if it happens, hopefully this can empower you.
Focus Immediately
We learned the first 24 to 48 hours are the most critical. This is when a lost animal may come out from hiding, and that is when there is a risk that it could panic and move further from its escape location. The lesson we have here is simple: Start your search efforts immediately. Do not take a trip, and do not put this aside. You are the sole person that can speak for your animal—do it.
Here are recommendations to take from Professional Pet Trackers, a professional animal tracking company. Here is advice they sent us on what to do within the first day of losing your dog or cat:
We have much more that we will share about hiring a professional tracker below in this post so keep an eye out for that …
Get Microchips, GPS Trackers, and Tags
Lincoln is microchipped, but he did not have on a collar with a GPS tracker or a tag.
We cannot say enough: Microchip your animals!
Even animals that you think do not need microchips are, in fact, great microchip candidates because they could be the most threatened by a strange environment if they are lost. Microchip that dog who never leaves your side. Microchip that indoor/outdoor cat. Microchip every pet because it quite literally could be the only connection you will have with your pet if it escapes.
A message as well if you find an animal: Take it to get microchipped scanned.
Do not assume a stray is a stray! Strays you encounter may have loving homes despite looking like strays.
Even a cropped ear, which signifies being part of a trap-neuter/spay-release program does not mean the animal is a stray. We alone have adopted two of three cats with cropped ears—they were at one time strays, but they were rescued. Therefore, do not assume the animal that you fed or rescued or saved is feral or a stray without a home. Be responsible and see if it is microchipped. Animal controls, animal shelters, veterinary centers, veterinary emergency clinics, and even some police stations and fire stations can scan for microchips. You could be reuniting a lost love. Heck, you could even get a reward. Do the right thing.
As far as GPS tracking, there is zero reason not to do this if you and your animal are exploring. The worst that can happen is the collar comes off so your pet does not have the tracker. Trackers can be replaced; pets cannot.
Last note on this: Having a collar with a tag provides instant information to someone who can find your pet. Instead of having to wait to see if a found pet has a microchip, a tag can immediately provide a number for a person to call. Oh and QR codes in theory are great on a tag, but the reality is everyone does not know what a QR code is or what to do with it. A tag is simple and more accessible.
PS—A further note on collars that in no way relates to lost pets but annoys the heck out of me: Remove the bell on collars. Animals have highly sensitive ears, and a bell jingling every single time they move is horrible. And if you are going to disagree, at least try it. Dangle a bell of equivalent body-to-bell size around your neck and tell me that does not annoy the heck out of you.
Stop Using AirTags as Animal GPS Trackers
Apple did not invent AirTags for animal tracking or identification … so do not use them for animal tracking and identification.
Yes, they are cheaper, but cheap does not mean smart or superior.
Before we lost Lincoln, our vet made us promise never to use AirTags as animal trackers. He said he has seen pets with literal burns through their throats. First, some animals swallow the tags. Second, tags are batteries—when both sides become wet, that conducts electricity, and that literally burns a hole through what it surrounds. Simply put: AirTags are horrible for animals. Stop using them.
Listen to Their Actions
Starting at the beginning of our story when I picked Lincoln up and decided we were leaving—Lincoln told me he did not want to leave our home. He was nervous and squirming out of my hands to try to get back inside his home. If I had listened to his actions, I would not have pushed him, and we would have stayed. Animals know their limits—just like humans—so showing an understanding of what they say through their actions builds trust. Andy and I now have a saying when we see Lincoln take a definitive stand. We say, “Lincoln says, ‘No’” or “Lincoln says, ‘Yes’” (we do this for our other cat, Lysander, too) because we want him to know he has a voice and we hear and respect it.
Build up Leash and Harness Confidence
Andy and I had started small when it came to training Lincoln on his leash and harness. We had practiced by associating him to his leash and harness by leaving them out in our home. Then we moved to putting him in his harness at home. That allowed us to transition to letting him investigate outside our front door with his harness and leash on, and that then moved into taking him into an enclosed courtyard twice a week. When we moved, we lost access to this enclosed courtyard, which is why I felt we could transition to a new location. Looking back, though, Lincoln was still not confident with his leash and harness, so one suggestion I have is to only move to a new area when confidence is restored. We are taking steps backward now—starting at the beginning with Lincoln—to rebuild his confidence. Therefore, move slow and realize sometimes you need to move backward to go forward, and both of these are okay.
A note about harnesses too: Get a harness you have confidence in. Lincoln was in a PetSafe harness when he slipped out and ran away. We have always had a problem with PetSafe harnesses, and it was a big mistake putting Lincoln in one when we knew it was a horrible product.
What you should take away is we do not recommend PetSafe harnesses so much so that we threw two in the trash because we cannot in good faith even donate them to another person.
Confirm Leash and Harness-Training Surroundings
When leash and harness training, ensure the area is conducive for training. Make sure the area is quiet and calm—which we did, but where we faltered was ensuring the area was open … and I mean really open. Lincoln backed away from me and slipped—bottom first—through the bottom of a fence gate before I could get to him. While we were a couple yards from that fence, yards close quickly with a frightened cat. If I could redo this particular lesson where we were leash and harness training in a new area, I would ensure the area was open so that there would be surrounding structures to impede in my ability to get to our son quickly, if needed.
Have Proper Harness-Training Skills
A top way a cat pulls out of his harness is by backing up and slipping out. One huge way to reduce this is to decrease tension on the leash and harness. Talk and move calmly so as not to frighten them.
Never Yell or Run After an Escaped Animal
When Lincoln bolted, I was panicked, and my first reaction was to yell his name and run after him, but this is incredibly faulty. How you feel (panicked, scared, etc.) should not be how you act. Never—and I mean never—yell or run after an escaped animal.
Yelling and running immediately triggers their fear response, so maintaining a calm, neutral voice helps decreases the build up of fear, and maintaining sight on them as they run helps to locate them sooner versus later.
I know this goes against every natural instinct, but your natural instincts will make the situation worse no matter how great of a bond you have. Plus, let’s be honest, too, even in best conditions, people cannot run as fast as a dog or cat.
Reconsider a Search Party
When we lost Lincoln, I called in many people, which meant there were numerous feet walking and numerous “Lincoln”s being called. If an animal is scared enough to flee from those it loves, the more people walking and yelling only makes that animal think there are more predators so it will further hunker down. Instead, keep a search party intimate. Only those your animal knows and trusts are allowed in.
Search Quietly
We read and heard when searching to search quietly, even silently. This was another area we messed up on because along with calling in many people, some of those people rode with four-wheelers, which means on top of Lincoln already being scared enough to run from us—the people he loves and trusts most—he was then terrified of the new voices and then paralyzed by a four-wheeler circling in the area. In short, we made it unsafe in Lincoln’s eyes, and that cost us time in getting him back.
A note on what to do: Walk silently at night and shine a flashlight in tucked away or tight areas. Look for the light reflection in your animals’ eyes.
Remember Facts
Remember facts because they are in your favor …
About 75% of cats stay within two blocks of where they escaped. Therefore, more than likely, your cat is close.
Also, remember your mind is your worst enemy. Your biggest fears will render you unmovable … if you let them. Imagining the worst case scenario is unhelpful to your efforts, and the chance that the worst case scenario happens is highly unlikely. It turns out Lincoln was positively identified at the precise location he went missing, which goes to show my panicked and fearful mind was worse than reality.
Keep Records
Similar to remembering facts, keeping records is super important in a few different ways …
First, it was alarming how quickly Andy and I forgot what happened. For instance, Lincoln bolted, and I ran after him. When I did not see him and Andy asked what direction Linc went, I immediately could not remember.
This is why—as odd as it sounds—we recommend filming yourself immediately at the height of any crazy moment because you can rewatch what you said to aid your memory.
Records also keep track of who you contacted, what you requested, what was done, and what you could continue to do. I had a pages-long document detailing this, and it was so helpful when Lincoln was found because I knew exactly who I needed to provide updates to.
Lastly, we had timelines of sighting dates and times, maps of posted flier locations, top scent locations, and trail camera spots. Listing the last two specifically aided us when we removed fliers and pulled down our trail cameras.
Place Scent Articles
Scent articles should be of you—not your animal. The founder of a nonprofit group that focuses on helping stray cats told us, “Lincoln isn’t looking for his scent. He wants your scent.” With this in mind, scent articles should be worn clothing that came into direct contact with your skin—the sweatier and dirtier the better.
As far as where to put the articles, it is highly recommended to place them at the location an animal disappeared to help bring the animal back to that area. Hang clothes along tree branches versus placing it on the ground because the wind can carry the scent.
The right image shows a blanket we use at the location of Lincoln’s escape.
Also, place scent articles on top of trail cameras. By doing this, an animal can smell the clothing, and you can capture a picture or video, which will confirm your animal’s identity.
Also, a note on what scent article not to use: A popular misconception is placing your cat’s litter box outside.
We learned by both trackers and trappers that litter boxes should not be used.
The smell signals to predators (such as other cats and wild animals such as foxes and coyotes) that there is a new cat, so those predators turn their attention to hunting down the new visitor, and that puts your cat in danger. Also, if hiring a tracker with a K9, the ammonia smell cancels the scent.
Last note on a common misconception: Never use another animal as bait, such as the other cat or dog that lives with the lost animal. This can backfire in many ways. For the “baited” animal, plans could backfire and then two animals are lost, the “baited” animal would also experience unnecessary stress, the “baited” animal could be traumatized by the incident—after all, cats should never go in cages so to do that, would genuinely be traumatizing to it. As far as your lost animal, remember it ran from you—the person it loves and trusts most—so hearing or seeing another animal caged—even if it knows the animal—will make the lost one feel suspicious and fearful.
Stay at the Escape Location
This can be argued, but Andy and I had success bringing Lincoln home, and one action we did was staying at the area Lincoln escaped—and when I say “staying,” I mean physically camping and living out of a tent until Linc was rescued.
I will add that I think staying at the area is essential if the animal escaped in an unfamiliar place. For us, Lincoln had nothing to associate where he bolted, so we believe having our scent at that location the entire time really helped.
Another reason we support staying at the site is due to trapping—the first day our trap was used, Lincoln prematurely triggered the trap, which prevented him from getting inside. We learned premature triggers happen frequently too, so being able to quickly reset the trap allows for more time to trap the animal.
There are thoughts to keep in mind if you do camp: Camp quietly—in voice and actions, do not bring strong smelling foods so that predators are decreased, and keep the location the same as much as possible. More detail on the last one: Do not move your tent in one location, then another, then another or scatter tons of belongings in the area. Changes are suspicious to a lost animal. Your goal is creating familiarity.
Spread the Word
Raising awareness about a lost pet increases the odds of finding that animal, and raising awareness comes in two forms: Online and in person.
When it comes to online efforts, mark your animal as missing with your microchip company.
That way, if your pet is scanned, there will be immediate realization to your situation.
Other online efforts we did were creating a shareable Facebook post and asking family and friends to share it.
People we did not even know reached out to us, saying they were in the area and would search for Lincoln—those extra sets of eyes are a major advantage.
Consider opening a PawBoost listing, which is a national database for lost (and found) pets that spreads through the real and online community in shelters, rescues, animal control, and partners who help lost pets. You do have to pay and pay to renew (every week), but the reach is far. Additional listings can be done with PetCo Lost Love and Pet FBI. Other online efforts can include contacting animal rescue organizations, animal care and control, animal shelters, animal emergency centers, and veterinarian centers. Also, it can help opening and posting in Nextdoor, which is a social networking app for people in the same neighborhood.
Looking at in-person efforts, create fliers that are clear and simple:
- The animal’s name
- A picture that showcases them fully and is in color and clear without a distracting background
- The location (road or intersection and city our county)
- Date the animal went missing
- A phone number or two to call
A note on adding “Reward”: There is a debate about whether this helps …
Often this can open you up to scammers, and we can confirm that we had a scammer contact us, pretending to have Lincoln.
The other side is that the word “Reward” often shows people you are more serious about getting your animal back. The choice is yours, but we recommend researching a bit more before choosing one direction.
As far as where to place fliers, put them everywhere: intersections, businesses, people’s cars, people’s hands, etc. Additionally, when talking to people, ask them if they would be willing to put out a ring camera or share their camera information as many cameras have guest accounts links.
We also did (what I call) half sheets, which reminded people of Lincoln, what he looked like, information on him, and multiple ways to help versus fliers that only request calling if there are sightings.
Many critical steps could happen before Lincoln could even be seen, such as asking people to monitor their own ring or trail cameras, if they had them.
Get as Many Cameras as Possible
If your animal is like Lincoln, Linc only came out at night when we were in our tent and the area was quiet. In fact, it was only Day Six—the second to last day we trapped Lincoln—that Andy physically saw Linc himself. That means if relying on physically spotting him, we would have been essentially been one week late. This is why we do not suggest relying on physically spotting a lost animal. Instead get trail cameras …
Cameras allow for more eyes in different places and at different times. We were fortunate to have seven trail cameras—and nearly all of them ended up capturing a picture of Lincoln. Trail cameras are also how we were able to make a positive identification, and that step moved us to being able to trap with confidence because we knew we were setting a trap for Lincoln.
A quick note about trail cameras: We highly encourage ones that send pictures to your phone. We had one that had an SD card so we downloaded the images daily, but this means we are also looking after the fact. Instead, trail cameras with immediate access at your grasp means you know exactly what is happening when it is happening.
Hire a Professional Tracker who has a K9
We hired Professional Pet Trackers.
If you take away anything from this post, take away this message: Professional trackers with K9s do work. If you do not know where your animal is, use a tracker with a K9!
We heard that K9s seeking terrified, lost animals—mainly cats—is counterintuitive. However, the truth is a properly trained K9 does not run, chase, or threaten what it is tracking because the goal is never to scare off the target.
Trackers and their K9s are literally and truly the only way you will be able to determine where your animal is not and where your animal is.
A quick note about trackers: Be on alert for scammers because there are many. We had at least three reach out. In the end, we cannot recommend Professional Pet Trackers enough. Use them. They are 100% legit.
Freeze Your Animal’s Fur
This is the second most important tip: Freeze your animal’s fur because this is a perfect scent item for a tracker’s K9.
I know—we sound crazy, and we would seem more crazy if you open our freezer and see two freezer bags stuffed with different fur and labeled “Lincoln March 2026” and “Ly March 2026,” but here is the thing …
Fur is a wonderful scent item, and we gave Linc’s fur to our tracker and her K9. By storing fur in the freezer, we know if this horrible situation happens again to us, we have a dedicated scent item ready.
There are steps you want to take when collecting the fur:
And storing the fur in the freezer is important because heat degrades scent over time.
In the end, yes—look like a crazy person with fur in freezers because that frozen fur is possibly the only item that can reunite you with your lost love. Plus, let us be honest—parents keep their children’s hair from first hair cuts and baby teeth when they fall out. Let us normalize frozen fur.
Make a Successful Trap
The biggest lesson we learned in trapping is to get a trap that fits your animal.
We bought a smaller trap because Lincoln is a cat, which is a smaller animal. What we found was that the trap was too small for him because he ended up triggering the trap door prematurely when checking out the trap. When we got a larger trap, he went in that day. We speak only from our experience, but feel there is no harm in getting a larger (versus smaller) trap.
When setting a trap, place it where your animal is believed to be.
There is risk in placing a trap too early so once when you have a positive identification, then you can trap.
We covered the sides, top, and floor with hay to disguise the trap and camouflage it because the trap was placed in a hay shed. At the advice of our friend, we also put our sweaty, dirty clothing on the top and on the floor of the trap so that our scent could pull Lincoln in and our clothing could cover the metal trap flooring, decreasing suspicion when he stepped in. Lastly, we read making the trap look like a tunnel with entry and exit at both ends helps animals to feel they can escape.
Take Care of Yourself
Do not give up. Your animal relies on you and solely you. Be patient and keep going. Our tracker told us bringing a lost animal home often feels like a marathon—not a sprint. Therefore, take care of yourself because that means you can take care of your animal.
Again, we hope this does not happen to anyone, but if it does, we hope this information can put you at a major advantage to find your love.
